Food in Ghana – Kentucky Fried Chicken or jollof rice?
As food culture in Accra continues to change, what does this mean for local food businesses?
Driving down the streets of Accra, you may see a Burger King, Domino’s or Levi’s when you’re on your way to the mall. But why is that? According to Peace FM Online, the Western presence in the Ghanaian capital, and particularly in food establishments in the central, cosmopolitan areas such as Osu and Labone, where many of the busiest Western-style retail outlets are located, began in the 1700s.
“The contact between the people of Osu and the Europeans [the Swedes and Danes] in the past led to the expansion in trade and also changes in the culture of the people of Osu,” said Kwabena Ankoma, the author of Heritage of Osu, Ghana: Past and Present.
That influence has evolved and taken new forms in places such as Osu, Labone and Cantonments, three adjoining neighbourhoods in south Accra which have become hubs for tourists and Ghanians based overseas.
But who is this influence benefiting? Is it improving the lives of ordinary people or are the beneficiaries just tourists and Ghanaians visiting from Western countries who crave a piece of home while they are in the country?
“I often visit the Western restaurants – twice a week at least. Normally it’s for the food but these days, the architectural designs, interior design and customer service also add a lot of value,” said Omoloye Malise, a student at the Ghana Institute of Journalism.
The food culture in chic neighborhoods such as Osu, Labone and Cantonments has been finding new inspirations fast, reflecting some of the broader changes. Food and drink outlets such as Honeysuckle, Bosphorus, and even the first KFC, started up in this part of town.
With the arrival in Ghana of franchises such as KFC (which first opened here in 2011) and Burger King (2018), how have Western tastes begun to influence Ghanaian food culture?
Bridging the gap
Naa Lantwei Adjebu-Johnson, co-owner of Lala Fruits and Beverages, believes that this influx is a good thing and will end up benefiting Ghana in the future.
“In the next five or ten years, I think it will help Ghana, because there will be more people coming in from foreign countries to experience it, and it will bring foreign exchange, it will bring a lot of development. People will even come and invest or maybe build a business,” said Adjebu-Johnson.
Malise discusses how the introduction of Western restaurants has affected the normal large group dining culture in Ghana, “The introduction of Western restaurants and fast food services has … generated a wide gap between group eating and individual quick- service meals,” he said.
A lot of the top-rated social clubs in Accra – like Sandbox, Bloom Bar or the Garage Lounge – are very expensive by most young people’s standards. So, who is frequenting these establishments? Can the average Ghanaian afford to go to such places?
The price of lunch at one of the most popular restaurants in this part of town can range between 100 and 300 cedis. For instance, a burger with fries at Bistro 22, a popular Western restaurant in Cantonments, costs 140 cedis – the equivalent of up to $13.
“Now I’m 40 years old, so now I prefer eating at home because I know what I’m eating and what’s in my food. I’ve been to those places before, but for now I eat in the house,” said Adjebu-Johnson.
Pineapple ginger
Nancy Tawiah, supervisor of the Honeysuckle restaurant in Labone, which caters to a Western palate, adds: “Me, I like both, because I’ve tried so many. I’ve been going to different restaurants, like Thai restaurants, Indian restaurants… I’ve eaten their food and I like it.”
Locally owned businesses are a big part of the culture in Ghana and can drive the economy. But with the influx of Western businesses in Ghana, what does this mean for local entrepreneurs? How are their businesses being impacted by this change?
Adjebu-Johnson of Lala Fruits and Beverages doesn’t seem too bothered by this trend, and nor is her sister Naa Lamiokor. They serve beverages and snacks such as yam chips, tangerine juice and pineapple ginger juice, perfect for the Ghanaian palate.
“Most of the Western businesses are in Accra and we have our Ghanaian [businesses] spread all over the country. They also have theirs and they have their customers. And the Ghanaian-based businesses, they also have theirs, and they also have their customers,” said Adjebu-Johnson.
“I feel like it is slowly and gradually making Ghanaian culture lose its uniqueness and it’s making the culture much more flexible,” said Stanley Amoako, a student at the Ghana Institute of Journalism. “The reason being that food is a huge part of culture and Ghanaian local foods have history and meaning.
“But now even the local restaurants have started creating Westernised versions of the local foods just so they can stay in business.”
Back to roots
Although the influence of other countries isn’t always a bad thing, it can sometimes overshadow a country’s true culture.
The big question is, how can Ghanaian establishments continue to incorporate Western social influences without taking away or even losing their own culture as a whole?
“It’s not bad,” Adjebu-Johnson said. “They infuse it with the Ghanaian culture, so I think it’s OK because when you go to a restaurant like this, maybe you see a bit of Western in [their design] but you see more of the Ghanaian culture. And even the food, you see some Western parts in it. But it’s still Ghanaian food.”
Nancy Tawiah believes that there will always be people around to reconnect you to your culture and roots.
“So, we are learning new things as time goes on,” she says. “Human beings have to explore, know more about what is [in] the outside world. Since this thing [the Western influence] came in, I think it’s good. We can combine both and then we’ll be great one day.”
Yvonne Abedi
Yvonne Abedi is a sophomore at the Annenberg School for Communication, University of Southern California. She served a Maymester internship in Ghana at Asaase Radio
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